Whole‑home repiping used to be a last resort. Now, with aging copper in 70s builds, brittle galvanized in mid‑century homes, and aggressive municipal water, it is a straightforward renovation that can stabilize water pressure, clear up discolored water, and stop the recurring pinhole leak routine. The challenge is not whether to repipe, but which contractor to trust, and on what terms. Prices vary widely, warranties are not all equal, and differences in workmanship can show up years later inside walls where no one is looking. I have stood in crawlspaces scraping flux off brand‑new copper with a fingernail and I have watched a crew replace a two‑story home’s hot and cold lines in a single day without stepping in a flowerbed. Contractor choice is the difference.
This guide compares 2025 repipe contractors on three axes that matter most to homeowners and property managers: cost, quality, and warranties. The goal is not to crown a single “best” provider. The right pick for a single‑story ranch in Phoenix is not the same as for a three‑flat in Chicago or a stucco two‑story in the Bay Area. Think of this as a map and a lens. You still have to look closely, but you will know where to focus.
What drives repipe cost in 2025
The price range for a full repipe in 2025 runs roughly 6,500 to 18,000 dollars for an average single‑family home, with outliers on both ends. Roughly half the quotes I see fall between 8,500 and 14,000 for a three‑bed, two‑bath, slab‑on‑grade or crawlspace home. Here is what moves the number.
Material choice has the biggest line‑item impact. Cross‑linked polyethylene (PEX‑A or PEX‑B) remains the budget‑friendly option, often 20 to 40 percent less than copper. Copper remains premium, with market swings tied to commodities. A copper repipe that was 12,000 in a low copper month can jump to 15,000 when wholesale rolls upward. Chlorinated PVC (CPVC) sits between the two on material cost, but labor and local code acceptance complicate the picture. Many urban jurisdictions allow PEX and copper broadly, with CPVC approved but less commonly used in professional Repipe Plumbing work.
Access matters more than square footage. A 2,000‑square‑foot home with simple attic access can be faster and cheaper to repipe than a 1,400‑square‑foot home with plaster walls, tile wainscoting, and no crawlspace. Stucco exteriors, masonry walls, and second‑story baths add labor time because of patching complexity and the need for careful routing to avoid structural members.
Number of fixtures and wet walls sets the labor scope. A four‑bath home with a laundry upstairs, kitchen downstairs, and an exterior hose bib on every side of the house is a different animal than a two‑bath layout centered on one chase. Count every lav, tub, shower, water heater, hose bib, ice maker, and softener loop when you compare bids.
Permitting and inspection are not optional. Some contractors roll permit fees into a flat price. Others itemize them. Expect 150 to 800 dollars in permit and inspection costs for single‑family, more for multi‑unit. In cities with water district coordination, add a week or two to the timeline and a few hundred dollars to the budget.
Drywall and finish repairs swing the tail of the budget. One contractor might include patch and texture to “paint‑ready,” while another stops at “drywall hung.” Paint matching on orange peel or knockdown is another layer altogether. I have seen two bids differ by 1,400 dollars because one included repainting three accent walls and the other did not. Read scope lines carefully.
Schedule and crew size influence efficiency. A company that runs a four‑person crew can often finish in one to two days where a two‑person crew needs three. Faster is not always better, but it can reduce the number of access holes because routing decisions get made with the entire system in view.
Finally, region sets a base rate. Labor costs in the Pacific Northwest and California are higher than in the Midwest and Southeast. The same house, same materials, same access might be 9,500 in Omaha and 13,500 in Oakland. If you are comparing quotes across regions, adjust expectations accordingly.
Material choices and what they mean for quality
Contractors usually lead with material because it is easy to describe. Principled Plumbing LLC Repipe Plumbing Clackamas Quality, though, hinges on how material meets method.
PEX has earned its place for repipes. PEX‑A with expansion fittings offers full‑bore flow, fewer fittings in walls, and excellent freeze resistance. PEX‑B with crimp or clamp rings is cost‑effective and widely stocked. The weak link is not the tube. It is fittings and how they are installed. I still find overtightened 90s where a gentle bend would have avoided a fitting in a wall, and I find kinks that should have been replaced rather than heated out. A good contractor uses bend supports, avoids unnecessary fittings in concealed spaces, and secures home‑run lines cleanly to manifolds.
Copper remains the gold standard for high‑heat areas and for homeowners who want the heft and known lifespan of a metal system. Type L is the typical call for domestic water inside walls. Type M shows up in some bids to shave cost, which is a red flag unless the local code and water chemistry truly support it. Solder joints live or die on prep, flux discipline, and heat control. A shiny bead does not tell the whole story. I wipe a new joint with a dry cloth; if I pick up sticky residue, the installer used too much flux that can corrode over time.
CPVC has a narrower niche in my view. It glues quickly, resists scale, and stays stable at hot temperatures. It can be brittle behind drywall if unsupported, and solvent welding in cold or humid conditions is sensitive to technique. Some insurance carriers frown on it in certain regions due to past failure clusters tied to workmanship, not the material itself, but perception matters when you resell.
Hybrid systems are common in thoughtful repipes. Copper stubs at the water heater and exterior hose bibs, PEX runs through the attic or crawlspace, brass drop‑ear elbows at shower valves. This plays to each material’s strengths. If a bid insists on all‑copper or all‑PEX for every run, ask why.
Quality shows up in routing choices. I have walked homes where the shortest path saved three hours for the crew but created long, diagonally routed hot lines that take forever to deliver warm water to a lavatory. A smarter path with a small recirculation line or a closer manifold placement would fix that. The better contractors talk through these trade‑offs before the first hole.
How to read a repipe warranty
Warranty language is where contractors quietly differentiate themselves. Almost every quote touts “lifetime” or “25‑year” coverage somewhere. Dig into what is covered, who stands behind it, and what triggers exclusions.
Manufacturer warranties cover PEX tube and copper pipe for 25 to 50 years depending on brand and water conditions. Expansion fittings, crimp rings, and valves have shorter terms. These warranties cover the material, not the labor to open walls, repair, and repaint. A pinhole leak from a bad fitting five years in may be a two‑hundred‑dollar part covered by the manufacturer and a three‑thousand‑dollar drywall and repaint bill not covered at all.
Contractor labor warranties are where your risk is managed. The strongest I see in 2025 are 10 to 25 years on workmanship, transferable once to a new owner within a set timeframe, and inclusive of access, repair, and finish up to a stated cap. Some firms cap labor coverage at a few thousand dollars or require you to use their drywall sub. That is fine as long as it is clear.
Watch for water quality clauses. Aggressive water with high chloramine or low pH can shorten copper life and affect some PEX fittings. A fair warranty will require a pressure regulator below a set PSI, thermal expansion control on tanked heaters, and a functioning dielectric separation at dissimilar metals. If your home lacks a pressure regulator and expansion tank, expect the bid to include them. It protects you and keeps the warranty valid.
Transferability affects resale. A buyer’s inspector will ask about the repipe. If you can hand over a warranty that transfers without fees, you just removed an objection. If the warranty terminates at sale, your buyer discounts their offer to cover hypothetical risk.
Response time is the unspoken part of warranty. When a pinhole forms above a dining room, 48 hours is a long time. Ask how warranty claims are handled on weekends and after hours. In practice, the best contractors triage over the phone, send a tech to stop the leak immediately, and schedule repairs within days.
The contractor types you will meet
You will see four kinds of players, sometimes overlapping.
The dedicated repipe specialist is built for volume. They carry stock of every fitting, run large crews, and finish fast. Pricing is competitive, warranties are usually strong, and drywall repair is built into the process. The risk is a one‑size‑fits‑most approach. I have had to push to reroute a line for better hot‑water delivery where the default was “follow the old path.” When you hire a specialist, bring your layout concerns early.
Mid‑sized plumbing firms that also do repipes usually assign their best crews to these projects. You get more variability bid to bid, since repipes compete with water heater installs and commercial service calls. The upside is agility, especially if your project needs a little structural carpentry or unusual scheduling. Warranties vary, so read closely.
Small owner‑operator shops can deliver excellent quality at great value, especially on smaller, single‑story homes. You will interact with the person holding the torch or crimp tool. Timelines stretch because one or two techs cannot be in five places at once. If you are in no rush and want meticulous work, this is often a good fit. Be sure the shop carries enough insurance and has a clear path to handle drywall and texture.
Large regional brands market heavily on warranties and speed. They are often the easiest to schedule quickly. They can also be the most expensive. The difference is not always materials or labor quality but overhead. If the price premium comes with a transferable, in‑house warranty and guaranteed response times, it can pencil out.
What a strong scope of work looks like
Before I sign anything, I look for specific language in the scope. The presence or absence of these items says more about the contractor’s caliber than slick photos.
The bid should specify material by type and brand. “PEX” is not enough. I want “Uponor PEX‑A with expansion fittings” or “Type L copper, lead‑free solder.” For valves, “quarter‑turn, full‑port brass ball valves” tells me the trim will not be a weak link.
Fixtures and endpoints must be counted and listed. If your plan includes replacing shower valves, make sure the quote includes brand, trim, and any required remodeling of tile. If you want hot‑side recirculation, see it in writing.
Pressure and thermal control should be addressed. If static pressure exceeds code or manufacturer limits, the bid should include a regulator. For tanked heaters, I expect a thermal expansion tank, sized properly and placed where it will not cook in an attic.
Access and patching need clear boundaries. Will the crew cut from the interior only, or are stucco patches expected outside? Will they patch to paint‑ready or just hang drywall? Who handles paint? Texture match is a skill; the bid should say how close they aim to get.
Permits and inspections must be named. If the contractor asks you to pull the permit as an owner‑builder to save money, know that some jurisdictions then place more liability on you. I prefer a licensed contractor to pull and pass their own permits.
Schedule and water downtime should be concrete. For occupied homes, a good crew can reroute and leave you with water every night. If the plan requires no water for a full day, make sure that fits your household.
What quality looks like during the work
I do not hover over crews, but I walk a project at lunch and near end of day. Small signs tell you if you picked well.
Neat manifolds and logical labeling save you head‑scratching later. I like manifolds near the water heater for hot and a central location for cold. Valves should be labeled with a sharpie or printed tags. When a powder room faucet drips at midnight, you will thank past you for insisting on labels.
Supports and firestopping are not optional. PEX must be supported per manufacturer spacing. Copper must be isolated where it passes through metal studs. Fire‑rated assemblies should be re‑sealed with proper intumescent. Inspectors look for these, and they matter if a small fire ever tests those chases.
Penetrations should be clean. A sloppy oversized hole with a jagged edge behind a shower valve tells me the crew is fighting the clock. A tight hole with a grommet shows pride and also prevents abrasion down the road.
Pressure testing is a step, not a suggestion. I want to see the system pressurized and held while the crew walks it with paper towels and eyes open. In cold climates, testing with air is common; in warm climates, water. Either way, document the test pressure and duration.
Jobsite respect is part of quality. Drop cloths, boot covers, trash bags replaced daily, no cigarette butts in the planter. Trades that respect your home usually respect their craft.
The risk and reward of choosing PEX vs copper in 2025
Homeowners often ask me point‑blank: which one lasts longer? The honest answer is that both can outlast your tenure if installed properly and matched to your water chemistry.
PEX resists scale, handles freeze events with more grace, and installs with fewer heat risks in cramped spaces. It can be vulnerable to UV, so attic runs need protection near vents and skylights. Rodent pressure is a regional concern. In most urban and suburban settings with sealed attics and proper supports, I rarely see rodent damage, but it is not imaginary in rural areas. Expansion systems keep fittings out of walls more easily, which is a quality advantage.
Copper has a century‑long track record and a predictable failure mode. If your municipal water is corrosive, you can see pinhole leaks in under 15 years. If your water is neutral and pressure is controlled, copper can run 50 years and beyond. It is less flexible to route, which means more openings in finished surfaces. Soldered joints near combustible framing require care; reputable crews use flame shields, water spray, and heat‑blocking compounds.
I treat the choice as a project‑specific decision. In a two‑story with long hot lines and a tight budget, PEX with a small recirculation loop often gives the best daily comfort with the most affordable install. In a historic brick home where exposed mechanical runs add character, copper might make sense even at a premium.
Real‑world scenarios and what they teach
A 1964 single‑story tract home on slab in Southern California, two baths on opposite ends, original galvanized piping with chronic rust. The homeowner got three bids. The lowest at 7,900 used PEX‑B with crimp fittings, excluded drywall patching, and required the owner to pull the permit. The mid bid at 10,800 proposed PEX‑A, included patch and texture, and added a pressure regulator and thermal expansion tank. The high bid at 15,600 spec’d copper Type L, included patching and paint to match.
They picked the mid bid. The crew finished in two days, left water on each night, and labeled a neat manifold near the water heater. A tiny seeping crimp showed up on the cold line to the laundry the next day, caught by the pressure test. They swapped the fitting in an hour and patched the same afternoon. Five years on, no issues. The key difference was not just PEX type, it was scope honesty and control of pressure and expansion risks.
A 1920s two‑story with plaster walls in the Midwest, radiator heat, and a crawlspace with poor access. The owners wanted copper, partly for feel and partly for perceived lifespan. The specialist repipe firm pushed for PEX to avoid plaster damage. The owners hesitated. We walked the routing together and found a clean path through closets and an unused chase. The copper bid added two days and about 3,500 dollars for careful plaster removal and restoration. They chose copper, and the crew used type L, stubbed in brass drop‑ears, and kept torch work outside walls where possible with pre‑fabbed assemblies. It cost more, but for that house, with that plaster, it fit the context and preserved finishes.
A coastal condo building with PEX repipes from 2012 started to see isolated failures on brass insert fittings. Water tests showed high chloramines and low‑quality no‑name fittings from the original job. The 2025 contractor swapped to ASTM F1960 expansion fittings with corrosion‑resistant polymer sleeves and put a maintenance plan in place to inspect a sampling annually. Material choice, especially fittings, made the difference more than tube.
How to compare bids without losing your mind
Repipes involve enough moving parts to confuse anyone. Create a simple comparison sheet and normalize the variables that drive outcomes. Then choose based on value, not just price.
- Scope clarity: List material type and brand, number of fixtures, valves included, recirculation, pressure regulator, expansion tank, and whether hose bibs and ice maker lines are included. Access and finish: Note interior vs exterior cuts, drywall patching level, texture match, and paint responsibilities. Warranty detail: Write down years of material and labor coverage, what is excluded, transferability, and response time promise. Schedule and logistics: Days on site, water downtime per day, crew size, and whether they protect landscaping and attic insulation. Total price and payment terms: Include permit fees, potential change order triggers, and payment schedule tied to milestones.
Once you line this up across three contractors, the “cheap one” often turns out to be incomplete, and the “expensive one” is either justified by scope or simply high overhead. If all three look complete, choose the team you trust to work inside your walls. That is not sentimental. It is financial prudence.
Dealing with edge cases: slab leaks, multi‑unit buildings, and older finishes
Slab leaks push many owners to repipe rather than chase leaks under concrete. In a slab‑on‑grade home, expect the contractor to abandon the in‑slab lines and reroute overhead through the attic. Insulation and heat tape on hot lines in cold regions help maintain temperature. Penetrations from the attic down to wet walls should be fire‑stopped properly. If you see a bid that recommends chopping trenches in finished slab rooms for a whole‑home repipe, get another opinion. Trenching belongs to targeted line repair, not full repipes in lived‑in homes.
Multi‑unit buildings add layers of coordination. You have shared walls, stacked wet areas, and HOA rules. The best contractors assign a superintendent who lives on the project every day, coordinate water shutdowns with posted notices, and run clean staging areas. Expect more robust permitting, possibly asbestos testing for old drywall and joint compounds, and working hours limits. Warranties often need to be written to the association with a list of covered units. Make sure access permissions are squared away early. Delays cost more in buildings where a single missed entry can stall an entire riser’s progress.
Older finishes like lath and plaster, tile wainscoting, and wood paneling require patience and often a skilled finisher. A cheap repipe can become an expensive wall restoration if the crew cuts without thinking. Ask to see photos of patching from past jobs that match your finish type. Not all drywall crews can float plaster to a feather‑thin edge. If the contractor plans to bring in a plaster specialist, that is a good sign, not a cost you should balk at.
What “Repipe Plumbing” companies do well, and where to push them
Firms that specialize in Repipe Plumbing bring logistics muscle. They own the process from permit to patch. They know how to stage materials so a home with three occupants has water each night. Their warranty processing is usually smoother because they see patterns and stock the parts they need for quick fixes.
Where you need to be assertive is in design choices that affect your daily use. Push for shorter hot‑water delivery if it is reasonable to move a manifold or add a small recirc. Ask for accessible shut‑offs at sensible locations, not just the main. Request labeled manifolds, not a promise to leave a schematic. Confirm that hose bibs get full‑port valves and a frost‑proof design in cold zones. None of this is extravagant. It is the difference between a system that simply does not leak and one that serves your life well.
The quiet costs of skipping details
I have been called to homes “freshly repiped” where the water hammer makes cabinet doors vibrate. The cause is usually fast‑closing valves on new fixtures paired with no hammer arrestors and a marginal pressure situation. Adding a regulator and a couple of arrestors after the fact helps, but it is cheaper to plan it on day one.
Thermal expansion is another stealth issue. Tanked water heaters heat and cool. If the expansion has nowhere to go because of a check valve or PRV, your system pressure spikes. A 40‑dollar properly sized tank, plumbed at the heater, stabilizes the system and keeps PEX fittings and copper joints happier. It also keeps your pressure under the threshold of many warranties.
Attic runs need UV shielding at penetrations and intelligent routing to keep lines off hot roof decks when possible. In hot regions, I have measured attic temperatures over 130 degrees in summer. A contractor who knows the local climate will route and insulate accordingly.
Red flags during bidding and walk‑throughs
I try not to overdramatize red flags, but there are a few that consistently correlate with headaches.
A contractor tells you to skip permits to “save time.” That is a shortcut you will pay for when you sell or when a leak leads to an insurance claim. Most regions require a permit for a whole‑home repipe. The inspection protects you.
The bid under‑specifies materials. If you cannot tell what fitting system a PEX installer plans to use, ask. If they balk, move on.
They will not discuss pressure or water quality. A quick pressure check at an outdoor bib and a note on local water chemistry should be part of any responsible bid. If they do not own a pressure gauge, that is telling.
No reference jobs. In 2025, any established firm can share a few addresses, photos, or contact info for recent clients who agree to share. If privacy makes that hard, they should at least have before‑and‑after sets and inspector sign‑offs.
They ask for large deposits upfront. A reasonable schedule is a small booking fee, a progress payment when rough‑in passes inspection, and a final payment when patching is complete and water flows everywhere without leaks. State laws often cap deposits at a percentage. Reputable firms follow them.
What to expect on install day and after
The crew arrives early. They walk the plan through once more. They lay runners and cover furniture near work areas. They locate the main shutoff and confirm pressure. They stage material so your living room does not look like a warehouse.
Cutting begins with small exploratory openings to confirm chases. Lines are run in batches. Old lines are capped and abandoned in place unless removal is practical. The water is off for a few hours mid‑day while they connect mains and manifolds. If the home is occupied, they aim to restore at least one bath by evening. The best teams leave you with cold water at minimum the first night if a second day is needed.
Inspection happens the next morning or as scheduled locally. A good crew sticks around to meet the inspector. Once signed off, patching begins. Texture matching may be a separate day. If paint is included, schedule it after texture dries fully.
Expect the crew to walk you through shutoff locations, show you the manifold labeling, and explain any new devices like a regulator or expansion tank. Keep your copy of the permit final and the warranty in a home file where the water heater manual lives. If they used PEX, note the brand and fitting system on the warranty form.
The 2025 bottom line
A repipe is equal parts craft and choreography. The material matters, the routing matters, and the people matter most. In 2025, the market favors homeowners who ask pointed questions and choose on value rather than the shiniest postcard or the lowest line on a spreadsheet.
If your quotes sit far apart, normalize them by scope. Make sure the comparison accounts for pressure control, expansion, patching, and fixture count. Ask each contractor to state the material and fitting systems by brand. Read warranty terms for labor coverage and transferability, not just years on a brochure.
If two bids feel equally competent, choose the team that explains trade‑offs clearly and respects your house before they cut it open. That posture tends to carry through to the pieces you cannot see later. A good repipe fades into the background of your life. Water runs clear, pressure feels steady, and you forget what it was like to place a towel under a sink every week. That is the quiet success worth paying for, and it is available if you line up cost, quality, and warranties with eyes open.
Business Name: Principled Plumbing LLC Address: Oregon City, OR 97045 About Business: Principled Plumbing: Honest Plumbing Done Right, Since 2024 Serving Clackamas, Multnomah, Washington, Marion, and Yamhill counties since 2024, Principled Plumbing installs and repairs water heaters (tank & tankless), fixes pipes/leaks/drains (including trenchless sewer), and installs fixtures/appliances. We support remodels, new construction, sump pumps, and filtration systems. Emergency plumbing available—fast, honest, and code-compliant. Trust us for upfront pricing and expert plumbing service every time! Website: https://principledplumbing.com/ Phone: (503) 919-7243